July 19-25, 2009 To Custer, SD
Okay, all y’all – that is southern for you guys - I haven’t updated my blog because we have been out of cell phone – therefore internet – range forever! I have been writing on my PC so now you get an update. I am putting this on my memory stick and taking it to whomever on this ride an internet connection has. I am getting desperate – as I am sure you are. Here it is!!!!!
Sunday July 19, 2009 Bobby led the ride today. We were on a hard packed dirt road that paralleled the railroad tracks. Even on Sunday, trains go west empty and east loaded with coal. They blow the whistle – 2 longs and a short – at road crossings and this is loud at our close proximity. We were soon out of the alkaline white sands of the Nebraska Badlands and were back to grassy fields. There were a few herds of cattle but mostly empty pastures. There were some cottonwood trees that provided shade while we waited for the last of the group to catch up. Also the cottonwoods are giving off their wispy cotton free- floating thinglings. We were riding only 15 miles so we elected to skip a lunch break and keep riding. About noon Wayne and Sandy Gifford led us into South Dakota. We took turns taking pictures of each other in front of the Welcome to South Dakota sign. Soon Ardmore was in sight. This is a ghost town. It used to be a watering spot for the railroad but the water dried up and everyone left. It is spooky how they left – leaving cars, trucks, etc just where they were parked. There are maybe 2 houses with occupants. We tied our horses to trees and were taken back to our rigs. I am ready to travel faster now that I have only one horse. People ask me when my new horse will be here. I don’t know. I don’t have any say about the time schedule. I know that David Howell is going to look at my horse and ride him sometime soon. If he is what Rick says he is, I will send money and David will bring him when he comes to ride with us – the sooner the better as far as I am concerned. But David is a busy man and will make his own time schedule.
We have been camped very near the railroad tracks for several nights now. I usually hear one train as I go to sleep, but many people show up in the morning bleary-eyed from lack of sleep. We like the dirt road near the tracks better than by the highway but the trains at night are a bit much.
Some of us went back to Crawford to fill up with water as we didn’t like the alkaline water available. Nancy J had a slow leak in her truck’s back tire. Del noticed it as she was leaving and Tom chased her down. Tom has an air compressor to reinflate the tire and put a plug in it. Soon Nancy J was back on the road.
So far, it has cooled down in the afternoon. Not so today. There usually is a thunderstorm in the area which cools the area. So we gathered around my dinette with the A/C on for dinner. Today is Del’s birthday so a bunch of us wandered over and sang Happy Birthday to him.
We have lost some friends. Mary left when Duke was here. Bud left came back and left again. Nate Brown was here for about 6 weeks, and then went back to Wyoming. Ray and Meg took turns helping him and have gone to Arizona and Wyoming. Josie has come and gone several times and is currently here. Neil and Chayne have gone back to Virginia. Today Mike P. and Wanda left for health reasons. And tragically, Bud and Bonnie were on their way back here when a random drive-by shooting claimed the life of their daughter – and their granddaughter is suffering with glass in her eyes. These people are like family to us. One this trip, within our group we have lost 2 dads, 1 mom, a daughter, and a brother.
I have traded horses for part of the daily ride and many have ridden another horse for the day. You need a scorecard to keep track. An example: Mike rides Pat’s horse. Del is on Freda’s horse. DJ, Del’s son is on Del’s horse, Naked. Julie rides Ester’s horse. Ester rides one of Julie’s horses. Wayne rides Tammy’s new horse 2-Bits. And so it goes…..
Monday, July 20, 2009 Today we ride to Provo, the site of ammo storage. We could see the towers where bullets are made. Drops of molten steel are dropped and become sphere shaped, cooled, and hardened before hitting the bottom. As we rode, I was amazed at all the colors of green and yellow in the landscape. There were also small cliffs that had black faces. This is coal. The residents nearby may get some of this coal for heating. We camped in vacant lots in Provo again near the railroad tracks.. My area had tall grass. I tied Cisco to one side of the trailer, let him eat grass. Then I moved him to the other side so he could eat that grass
Tuesday, July 21, 2009 We rode out of Provo with the owner of 1/3 of the 20,000 acres that was an ammunitions storage site for WW2, Korea, and Vietnam, closing in the 1960’s. She told us the history that the Fort Igloo was a thriving community in its day. We rode out to the storage site. There are igloos – in the ground concrete bunkers 30x90x13 tall with a solid concrete door and with a Quonset hut top covered with dirt that stored the ammo. Beside each one is a horseshoe shaped mound of dirt some 6 feet or more high. This was used for temporary storage so trucks could quickly unload. She said one of the bunkers had once exploded and killed 2 men. As they dug through the rubble, they actually found a man that survived the explosion!
We stopped at a water tank. As we were coming up to the tank, Wayne, who was riding in the back, saw a huge cat that had been crouched down in the grass, get up and run to some wood rubble and disappear! Wayne figured this is a cougar about 4 feet high, 5 feet long and weighing about 100 lbs! We were lucky that this cat did not run through the main bunch of riders. We would have had horses shying and probably, riders thrown!
After I watered my horse, I did a stupid thing. I had my reins tied so they would not fall while I was taking a picture of one of the igloos. Cisco took advantage of my no-hands on the reins condition to drop his head and eat. Well, the reins fell down to his head. After I took the picture, I kicked him to get him to take a step and lift his head so I could get the reins. But – he stepped through the reins which then pulled back on the bit. He did what he has been taught to do – he backed up and backed up and backed up. I had no control of him. Then my hat fell down over my face – held on by the stampede string – so I was blinded. At this point, I lost my balance and the saddle slipped to the side. By the time it slipped to his belly, I fell off. Thump! It knocked the wind out of me. Some one got Cisco stopped and unhooked from the reins. It took me a few minutes to get my breath back. Then Tammy, the nurse, and I walked around a bit. I was okay but will probably have a bruise on my back side – not where I sit, thank goodness! Freda had fallen off her horse last month and we told her to make up a good story – that her horse had bucked 8 times and reared, etc. So she made up a story about my fall – that was just 3 or 4 feet off the ground. She said Cisco had bucked; I spurred him and was yelling “Ya-Hoo!” while the saddle came off and I was still on Cisco’s back – bareback now. After more spurring and bucking and yelling ”Yaw Hoo!’’, I finally slipped off. What a story that was! Then Michael started his version. I had fallen off and couldn’t ride so they built a travois for me like the Indians used and drug me on the travois down the trail so I could still say I had ridden every step of the way! What imaginations we have! In reality, I got back on Cisco and shortly after loped up a long hill. I was fine. At the top of this bluff we could see in all directions. We could see the 850 igloos!!! That our tax dollars built and are now abandoned…. Seeing such a wide expanse of land reminds me of the size of our country. All this land that I see is only a dot – or less – on a map. We rode through the perimeter fence and along in the no-mans land between the 2 perimeter fences a mile apart. This is National Grasslands area now. We stopped for lunch and some of our group decided to ride back to our trailer in Provo. The rest of us continued sometimes on the Cheyenne to Deadwood Stagecoach trail.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009 John, the Deputy Sherriff, brought his stock trailer out and in 2 trips, carried the horses of the group that ride the whole way. We started back in Edgemont where we left off the day before. Just out of town, we started on the Michelson Trail. This is a Rails to Trails that Gov Michelson sponsored 10 or 12 years ago. It goes all the way to Deadwood – some 114 miles. It is a multi-use tail – horse, bicycles, and hikers. It is wide enough for 2 or 3 horses to ride side by side. Three miles and we were back at our camp. We had a short break, and then left with the rest of the riders. The Trail went through canyons and the scenery was great! Some places we could see out across valleys – and there are trees. We have not seen many trees on this ride. We got off the trail and had our lunch break in a pasture. Three of us sat in the shade of a round bale of hay and had a back rest while eating. Several people took pictures of us. We had the only shade there. We ended the ride in another pasture and were taken back to our vehicles. We all moved rigs to the pasture. Nancy J and I moved on ahead to Plenty Star Ranch – tomorrow’s stop. This is a lovely place with green grass, flowers, and trees. Our horses are in a large pasture. This is by far the best place we have stayed. Duke and I stayed here 3 years ago. I remember a Spanish horse that was just being trained. Duke said I had no business with a 3 year old horse – he was right – so I did not buy the horse. Well. I told Isa, the owner, this story and she said the horse was still there. She called her horses in from their pasture and we looked at them. She has several for sale. They are all fat and round and nice looking horses. They have distinct characteristics including a Roman nose – although in this breed the hump starts high on the forehead so it is not a true Romans nose. These smooth gaited horses have long manes and tails and develop a crested neck as they get older. Now, I am glad I didn’t get the 3 year old.
Kim, from Vermont pulled in Plenty Star and came over to talk to us. She will be joining the ride for a week. She has been in the area and has been riding and sightseeing.
Thursday, July 23, 2009 We left out just after 4:00am to get to Cheyenne by 9 for my dermatology appointment. My surgery was outpatient with a local and I was done within 2 hours. Bobby had broken the back window in his truck and has not been able to find a replacement glass in the small towns we have been in. He had an appointment in Cheyenne today to get his back window replace so he went with Nancy J and me. We picked up feed and had a quick trip to Wal-Mart before going back. Diane, my friend flew into Rapid City today as did Juli, Wayne’s wife. Juli rented a car so she can do some sightseeing while Wayne is riding so she brought Diane to Plenty Star.
I survived the surgery and have an ace bandage around my arm. When this wears out I will use vet wrap like we use on horses. We got back to Plenty Star around 5. Diane was there, as were all the riders and rigs. So much for our peace and quiet last night. The stars are bright out here away from towns. But we have not had cell phone service for several days.
While in Cheyenne, I did talk to David about my new horse and made arrangements for him to bring the horse out here. He will arrive around 8 Sunday evening. I’m excited! I now need to come up with a name for him. He is a dark palomino with flaxen mane and tail and 3 white stockings. Do you have any suggestions?
Friday, July 24, 2009 The three of us had to make up yesterday’s ride that we missed so we left out at 6:30. Jim drove us to the point where we left off so we could ride back to Plenty Star Ranch. With only 3 riders, we were able to click out the miles. Sometimes Bobby would put his horse in a running walk and Nancy J and I would trot to keep up. We all loped a good ways too. There was water for the horses on the trail. Nancy J brought a collapsible water bucket – yes, Diane, you said I should have one – that was filled at a hand pump. We saw 8 or 10 wild turkeys, some goats, and deer. We got back to camp by noon. There are supposed to be “W” signs that told the engineer of the train to blow his whistle before getting to a trestle, bridge or tunnel to get the animals off before the train came by. Maybe we will see these signs another day….
Diane rode Cisco for about half an hour. I think she is comfortable riding him now. She had read this blog and knows he bucked one day and I fell off him (remember, that was my fault) and was a little leery.
We all washed our horses to get them ready for the parade Saturday. This is the first time on this trip that any of our horses have had a bath, except for Julie’s horses.
Bobby’s son Brad, his wife Marcia, and their 3 adorable girls – Ashley (12), Susan (7), and Kelly (5) – came to visit. They will be in this area for several days. Welcome Horton family!
Saturday, July 25, 2009 We all got ready for the parade in Custer. We transported our horses in several stock trailers. We had to wait until all the rest of the parade started as they always put the horses in the rear. We tried to carry flags from all 50 states. This is the first time that any one knows that all 50 flags have been in a parade! I rode Clover, Nancy J’s second horse and Diane rode Cisco. We rode 3 abreast with Diane in the middle. Tom put us up front behind the American flag. It was fun waving and talking to the large crowd.
After the parade we came back to Plenty Star and I did my “project” with Bobby’s grand daughters. We borrowed 2 oven racks from Jim’s trailer and got the shoe laces from Brad and Bobby’s shoes. Now try this at home before you knock this!!! We tied 2 shoelaces to the top of each rack. One twists the laces a few times around each index finger and puts his fingers in his ears. He leans over so the oven rack is suspended in air. Then another person takes a spoon or knife and plays the oven rack with whoosh across the bars, some dings on the sides, and maybe some quick back and forth between bars – really use your imagination. I’m not telling what the person with his fingers in his ears hears – you just have to try it! Anyway, we had all the kids try both racks and then all the adults too. Then the girls and I went around our camp and had everyone we found try it. The kids were calling “Free Music”. I felt like the Pied Piper. I was having fun!
Then it was time to put our musical instruments away and head to Mount Rushmore. I drove and Nancy J navigated. We went on 16A – a very windy road through Custer Park. This was a beautiful drive. There were wild donkeys that stopped traffic as they were in the middle of the road – and were happy to eat bread or carrots that tourists fed them. There were bridges – some called Pig Tail Bridges as they curved around like a pig’s tail or curly stairs – and tunnels. There were some one way bridges and one way tunnels. One tunnel opened at the end and the faces of Mount Rushmore were perfectly framed with the tunnel walls! Wow! This was amazing! Some engineer really did a great job! We got to the National Monument, parked, and decided to first go to the Artist’s Workshop. A park ranger told us how the faces were made. She gave an informative and interesting talk. Then we went up to the Viewing Terrace. I am impressed with the detail in the faces. We took another route back home that was considerable shorter but not as scenic. Thank you, Nancy J, for taking Diane and I on the scenic route!
Happy Trails,
Nancy